Oh Ireland, you captivating Emerald Isle, you semi-spontaneous trip! I’m so glad I ended up booking you, you were so very worth it!!
Having the constant wandering itch to go somewhere new, and seeing as France’s political climate last summer veered me slightly from going alone as a woman, and Scotland, the trip I’ve really been wanting to go on requires a longer stay — I decided Ireland was the perfect place to explore for a few days on my own while feeling safe, but also within budget. I had always intended on seeing Ireland as part of a duo Scotland roadtrip, but the chance of making Ireland happen presented itself, and of course I couldn’t resist. Plus the solo trip became no more when my cousin decided to tag along, which in my honest opinion having someone there with you on travels, really does make things so much more fun! After a few weeks in Portugal planning my first international wedding and spending time with family, off we went to the Emerald Isle — land of Guinness, whisky and the Cliffs of Moher!!
We lucked out and found a cozy AirBnb in what use to be an old church, now converted into apartments. It wasn’t in the busy center Dublin, but a nice 15 to 20 minute walk from the bustle or short bus ride. We naturally loved the cozy window nook in our place, great for the few times the rain decided to sprinkle showers, pausing our exploring. The perfect opportunity for my cousin to sneak on in and recharge before proceeding with our adventures.
It was quite lovely! Every place needs a cozy nook like this! And we had such an awesome host; funny, authentic and kind — we’d definitely go back and stay there!
Our place also happened to be near what might be one of our favorite brunch spots, Alma! We went there twice, and not a third time because our morning to the Cliffs started quite early. We both ordered the same thing, my cousin ordered the Tostadas, not the savory dish you may be thinking — instead a beautiful plate of thick sliced Organic Tartine Sourdough Bread toasted to perfection, served with a side of salty rich Irish Butter, homemade Dulce de Leche and seasonal homemade jams for dipping! The simplest of the dishes, but the freshness and blend of ingredients were more than simple!
And I’m still having dreams of Alma’s Poached Eggs!! Seriously I am, mostly because I wouldn’t even know how to recreate its perfect flavors. Two perfectly poached eggs atop freshly smashed avocado on a thick slice of that same hearty and light sourdough, finished off with a flavor packed Salsa Criolla and sprinkling of Feta Cheese {I opted out of the Portobello Mushrooms because of the garlic – but I’m sure it’s amazing}. Everything in that dish was perfection and bliss in my mouth!
From the food, to the endearing Argentinian family, to Alma’s calming and minimalist aesthetic — this place is seriously the best and I foresee you going back to this lovely spot on your visit too. It’s not your traditional Irish grub, but this gem is the beauty of Ireland’s growing culinary and multicultural scene. Okay, now I’m ready to go back to this wonderful place!
Once arriving into Dublin, freshening up and letting the light drizzle disappear, we finally made our way around the local streets of our AirBnb, looking for a spot to fill our hungry stomachs and quench our thirst for some Irish spirits. We walked right towards the old world tavern, The Bleeding Horse. What a name right?? It dates back to the 17th Century, with stories of its name deriving from its Inn days where horses with “staggers” would be bled out by a farrier. On the other hand, it could’ve been named during the Battle of Rathmines in 1649, when a wounded horse fled from the battle. Who knows, but what a backstory right!
There had been a rugby game earlier, the colors of banners, scarves and fans still lingering about. The Bleeding Horse is such a cool authentic pub with distinct wood beams, huge wooden booths, and several eating, drinking and lounging areas to go about and explore. Is that a thing one does in Irish pubs? No, only I get the urge to roam places like this as if they’re museums? Like any true Irish pub, live music is a must and while we didn’t catch a live performance when we were there, on our walk back later in the night, the crowds had gathered to listen to beautiful voices and melodies fill the street.
I opted for a light yet hearty potato and cucumber salad which I washed down with a Bloody Sling, a blend of Whiskey, grapefruit syrup, lemon juice, bitters and ginger ale, which is so very unlike me to mix such citrus with my whiskey But down it went, warming up my toes ever so slightly. The cousin went with the Jameson burger filled with all the classic fixings, chips paired with some yummy dipping sauces and a tall glass of Apple Cider; a feast fit for any lass!
After such a filling and tasty meal, we headed into the center of Dublin, walking off our meals and the toastiness that was quickly rushing to our heads. Which always makes adventuring a bit more fun, don’t you think? 😉
Being the Portuguese gals we are, now the search for coffee began! Turns out Dublin, like most European cities like to shut down pretty early on Sundays, but thankfully we found a spot, which I cannot remember or find the name for the life of me but it was connected to hotel and was large and lovingly smelled of rich coffee.
Brisk al fresco espressos and lattes for us on a quite Sunday afternoon, success!
I’m a natural planner and naturally created an itinerary which I’ll share with you after this Ireland travel series, focusing on all the local spots you can fully experience on a 3-day stay, including a full day spent visiting the Cliffs of Moher. If you’re thinking that I didn’t semi-plan our walking route toward the center of Dublin strategically just so we’d walk through St. Stephens Green…oh you’re mistaken. I don’t plan every single detail on my travels, quite the opposite, what I do do, is pick the specific spots I want to see, you know those locations you have to visit but especially those that catch my eye and intrigue me without being tourist traps. And then exploring goes from there!
Despite the cloudiness above and the approaching dreariness of the end of another day, many straggled around the lovely victorian St. Stephens Green. On park benches chatting or having a snack, families with their kids pushing along strollers or pausing to take family photos, those out and about looking for fresh air and a relaxing way to wind down their weekend, and then the darling ole travelers, like us, loving this mix of life in Dublin which comes with its very own background music — the melodies of local singers playing us along!
Also can we talk about how in Dublin Pigeons and Seagulls live in harmony!
We meant to walk through Iveagh Gardens before St. Stephens but completely missed it, it’s alright I’ll leave it for next time when I’ll have more time to explore all the pretty natural blooms.
We paused at Fusiliers’ Arch located the main entrance of St. Stephens Green, a recognizable monument in Dublin, to snap photos and learn about its history. At the top the arch you’ll find the names of battles locations of the Second Boer War, and below the 212 names who died in the war. A beautiful piece of architecture and history that managed to survive a beating during the 1916 Easter Rising. Whenever I travel, I always try to learn a few things about the country before going, but then really immersing myself in experiencing the history and culture of that place once there.
Every major city, particularly European, has a some sort of special arch or gate, right? I mean I know Lisbon does, New York City, Paris, London, Berlin…seems like it’s a thing.
Performers, singers, guitarists, bands — they’re on most street corners where the city is most alive with people, it’s very much Ireland, especially Dublin! It’s such a beautiful thing for these artists and creatives to put themselves out there, in a wide open public place to share their skills and passion And let me tell you, everyone is amazing! I don’t think there were any performers we didn’t think we so good.
So yes, if you’ve been to Dublin and once you do go, you’ll understand how much these local voices are very much a part of this country!
Side note I only now realized what the building above had on its billboard ….. DON’T RUSH, TAKE YOUR GUINNESS TIME. BRILLIANT!
Goodness every storefront and pub are so photogenic! Of course the endless amounts of hanging flowers and plants don’t help make them any less darling! I could’ve spent hours wandering about the streets, gazing at the different architectural details and plant displays Dublin has to offer.
Alleyways nestled with churches and pubs. What is this thing I have with alleyways….
Throughout our days in Ireland the sun would come out, hide, let the rain do its quick thing and then come back — I came to find out that for Ireland, that’s quite good for August. It wasn’t too cold and the light summer attire I brought along to Portugal, served perfectly well! It was actually a nice change to experience a cooler summer destination.
Nightfall was nearing, the street lights flickering on, and the pubs’ twinkling lights and rowdiness began livening up the evening streets.
We popped into a Caffe Nero for some nighttime nibbles to bring back to our cozy place.
We made one more stop before calling it day and found ourselves grabbing a seat at Sheehan’s Pub. This place is so authentic it doesn’t even have much of a social media presence, that’s how you know you’ve found treasure! It was so charming and authentic Ireland — small, yet quaint and cozy, somehow having a second {some pubs even have three} floors. We couldn’t let the opportunity to enjoy as many Irish pubs for a glass of whisky pass us by. Plus it was early enough we’d still have plenty of sleep time before our early morning to the Cliffs of Moher!
I nestled into my bar stool, ordering up my classic Whisky with ice and a side of ginger ale, while my cousin decided to try an Aperol Spritz. It didn’t go so well for her, I’m not one to sway anyone from trying something new, even I thought I might be swayed into liking this drink…no one was won over. Really who drinks this stuff?? Give me “Whiskey…the liquid sunshine” so George Bernard Shaw said and I completely agree with!
We sipped, chatted, listened and caught our eyes drifting, admiring all the different people, groups, individuals — thinking of all the reasons everyone may have been there. Occasionally even getting bits of the conversation our fellow bar mates. Oops 😉
Our curious minds were enjoying every moment, delightful indeed!!
What I love about travel, and why solo travel isn’t necessarily my favorite, is that you, your travel partner/s or the millions of others who have also visited that same city/country — we’re all seeing the same location, yet experiencing it so differently. You see things in a different light, one person catches something the other didn’t and ultimately the way that same place imprints your soul, doesn’t compare to how the person next you has been impacted by the travels. And I love that! Like my friend Devin, a world traveler often going to amazing places. We both found ourselves in Ireland the same year at different seasons, but his fun and much longer stay in Ireland involved driving the UK way. Same country, but totally unique and different travel experiences. While you’re at it definitely check out his other great travel stories!
That’s the beauty of Travel,
it has a way of opening our eyes,
broadening our horizons – our minds
expanding our knowledge
while bringing us all together
On we went, letting the bright lights of historical hotels and modern office buildings guide our way back to cuddle ourselves into bed and rest up for another day of adventure!!
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