Traveling to … Revisiting Old Favorites :: Belém + Baixa de Lisboa

For the last few years every time I am in Lisboa, I naturally spend some time with my loving aunt and uncle in Charneca the Caprica, a quaint neighborhood of the Costa da Caparica beach coast. And whenever possible I always like to take advantage of location to see and do something new within Lisboa. Since my cousin and I love fado, we’ve been treating ourselves to some intimate fado nights in famed casas de Fado or in the garden of the amazing Amalia, which I can’t wait to share with you soon. It turns out that when I went to gather photos from my time this summer in Portugal, I realized there were many wonderful afternoons and quick trips to Lisboa, that I hadn’t shared with you since 2018! How is it even possible of me, it seems I welcomed you all to quintessential Lisboa when I too aimlessly wandered getting to know those streets, and then simply forgot to share all the new and hidden treasures I’ve encountered along this time.

It’s quite nice to go back to places we throughly enjoy, no matter how many times we can return to a landmark or location — there are always new and old but new to me things to discover. This year my mother wanted to get to know Lisboa, like actually see the capital city so raved about these days, for herself. Yes, a Portuguese native, born in Angola, and yet she barely has any personal firsthand experience with the charm of Lisboa. And what an eerily perfect opportunity to see the often bustling city of Lisboa for the first time, with the usual large summer crowds kept afar because of Covid. If you’re a local or have experienced Lisboa in pre-pandemic times you know it’s certainly a vibrant city with endless history mixed with the modern and exciting, quiet alleyways and old neighborhoods, steeps hills that carry the sounds of Fado, the Tuk Tuks whizzing by on the cobblestone roads — so to see it all on an early July day and on a Saturday, just muted and empty, was simply eerie. The restaurants, esplanadas, outdoor bars and cafes…all quiet.

It was nice to have that quietness and space to ourselves, and yet we knew too well it comes at a cost to the locals and businesses. Let me tell you, this Saturday was also one for the record books when it came to heat, hence why many were kept in the cool alas for the brave tourists and semi-tourists, like ourselves. The heat blazed on at 94°F, it was one of the hottest days in Lisboa, even for me it was not a day to be walking around Lisboa or strolling the steep hills. We, and this city, were not meant for this. So we took it easy by starting the day in Belém, a neighborhood we had seen many years ago together when I was a child, but I think it’s a lovely way to start any first time adventure in Lisboa!

I loved when I did it with my aunt and uncle, the tourists lingering, ready to take on the morning of walking around a lovely historical city, and the same for us and the handful of visitors, that were also taking advantage of that morning seaside breeze before the heat would become unbearable. It was nice that I got a closer look at the details, uninterrupted. A quick walk around to watch the sailboats and we followed the Tagus river along, passing darling food, drink and artisanal carts — making the already picturesque walks towards the Ponte 25 de Abril and Descobrimentos an even more delightful way to start any weekend morning.

The sun beamed onto the iconic stone carved images of famed navigators and figures in Portuguese history and the beautiful tile and marble floors. If I lived nearby, I would certainly make early morning walks alongside the marina and Tagus River a frequent pastime.

Traveling to .. Revisiting Old Favorites :: Belém + Baixa de Lisboa || Dreamery Travels

A short walk back to our car which we conveniently parked right in front of Jerónimos Monastery . Something that most likely wouldn’t have happened during non-pandemic times, so as one does we took advantage 🙂

I just love this building so much! I’ve yet to go inside, because for me and although this would’ve been the perfect opportunity with lesser amount of people inside, I need a full day to admire every fine detail of this stunning structure. Its history, but it’s the beautiful architecture and intricate detailing that immediately fills you with a story. The stone, the carvings, the edging, the markings.

My goodness, the entrance alone will always stop me in my tracks! If I’m ever in this area, even if walking by not really choosing to stop, I always happen snap a few photos whether on a bright sunny morning or as golden sun sets behind its aged facade.

After a quick walk around Jeronimos, our stomach had made themselves known and as we had intended to proceed to the Baixa, we knew we’d find plenty of spots to satisfy our hunger. In many Portuguese cities under and above ground public parking spaces are conveniently located. Where one would assume parking in the city is hectic, and although sometimes it can be with one-way streets or closures for construction, you’re sure to find somewhere to park within walking distance of any neighborhood.

Praça do Comércio is another iconic location in Lisboa, serves as a great meeting place filled with places to eat and shop, while getting in gorgeous sea views of the Tagus River and even space to lounge if you so happen to have the time. Situated in the Baixa of Lisboa there is always something happening here. I had already enjoyed a bit of what the Museu da Cerveja had to offer a few years back, when the World Cup was taking place, and decided to give a try for a sit-down meal. There were quite a few people bearing the heat outside on the patio, but we chose to venture inside and were the only ones. We had every different seating option in the restaurant at our selection, of course we went straight for the wooden cocoons. Each one with a chandelier, we loved them and so we treated ourselves. When in … Lisboa não é certo 😉

The Museu da Cerveja is vast when you walk in, with a wall decorated with beer glasses, a large bar centered around a fun seating area designed to look like a quirky nook of a castle fit with hidden staircases and a library sitting area.

The heat had has craving something light, and for me that meant a classic fresh mozzarella tomato basil salad. It was a treat, it was large enough to satisfy my hunger and yet light enough to battle the heat. The tomatoes, ripe and juicy, you could taste the bit of the nuts within the dressing. My mother went with spaghetti and fresh cherry tomato sauce. A lovely glass a chilled Vinho Verde for me and red for my mother. For dessert we could not say no to a fresh in season personal fruit platter, which featured sweet ripened slices of mango, pineapple, cantaloupe, kiwi and strawberries that was just the perfect way to end our meal, cool off and give us the energy to discover more lovely treats. Well, the espresso did that too 😉 Bellissimo!

It was nice to come back to the Museu da Cerveja and actually enjoy a meal, a delightful one at that. Albeit a little weird that it was so empty considering that number of employees not doing their daily work routine. I know we will get back there, in fact I can’t wait to come back and enjoy another meal particularly out in the patio on a cooler day and actually check out the museum on the second floor.

I find it delightful to go back to these places, even better when there is less of the hustle and bustle, and being a tour guide for someone, especially a loved one, like my mother. I think it’s cool knowing that I’ve not only traveled to places, but I’ve managed to capture enough of its heart that I can tell its stories and show that bit of its heart and soul that captivated me, to someone else when they visit — especially in Portugal, a place that is so special.

Before we sat down for lunch we noticed that underneath the beautiful archways of Praça do Comercio there were a few tables setup part of a artisanal craft fair. These artist had an array of beautiful pieces — tiles, ceramics, paintings, jewelry and so much more lovey creations, most that could’ve been customized with names and words on the stop. I love anytime I encounter an artisibal or handmade art/design fair in a city, seeing what the locals are creating, traditional and one of a kind pieces that are treasures waiting to be given a home. It was truly the dessert to our lunch, I love spontaneous treats like this especially when you’re not expecting it while walking around a city. After any meal it’s a nice little boost to get you going!

Through the often vibrantly bustling Rua Augusta, beneath the gorgeously detailed arch of the Praça, listening to local musicians playing on street corners and restaurants just hoping for someone to sit by — we walked alongside the Santa Luzia Elevador, the quaint corners with fountain squares with a few tourists strolling along, trying to take in their share Lisboa. What instantly caught our eye were how many business had shut down or were temporarily closed. And we wondered my goodness, well these businesses have to open, they are very much an integral part of Lisboa’s heart and the people, the communities need these gems, many that have been established for decades!

We walked up along the cobblestone roads, ebbing and flowing dependent of which side the shade preferred, and steering clear of anything that was too steep for my mother take on in the heat. We made our way towards the famed Igreja do Santo Antonio Capela, where I sat down to cool off while my mother paid her religious respects. Right behind Santa Antonio is Lisboa’s Cathedral, Sé. You can see more of these historical religious landmarks here, and admire the work that went into creating two very different styled architectural religious structures, hundreds of years ago.

It was mid afternoon, the sun scorching and I noticed in my mother’s eyes and her slower pace, that maybe it was time for us to rest. Nestled beneath a cluster of shady trees were a group of Tuk Tuks. If you’ve been to Lisbon you know these little motorcars that are often whizzing around Lisboa and tourists love. And to be honest, I don’t know how locals don’t use this to get to work and avoid certain traffic. Most go around the city offering full tour guides, while others do just transportation to get you from one place to next in the city. It had never even crossed my mind to ride a Tuk Tuk, you know one of those things you city tourists doing and you feel “too local” for that lol Well we encountered the loveliest driver/guide {who I unfortunately don’t remember her name} and it was the best thing we could have done!

What would’ve been an hour tour around the most well known spots of Lisboa, she could tell we only needed a break and to be conveniently near our car. She was wonderful!! We loved her energy and knowing that at near 4 o’clock in the afternoon, we were her first riders! We talked about how the tourism industry in Portugal and Lisbon took a serious hit and how she too personally is doing less drives and had to take on another job. We talked all this amongst facts and tidbits of Lisboa, things we had never even heard or known, like how the different numbers of glasses on the facade of a light post symbolize how important the building or landmark it is lighting. We even passed by the most narrow house in the city {the slender teal blue beauty} and the tiniest street which is a steep flight of stairs connecting streets in front of the Museum of Fado Music, which a few years back we had sat right next to said tiny street eating gelato. It’s these moments and exchanges and experiences that only travel can gift us with. These connections are make the story, they are the journey.

She was truly the best, she drove us to neighborhoods in Lisboa I had yet to trek to. And when I say trek, I mean trek, there’s a reason Lisboa is known as the City of the Seven Hills. Certain neighbhorhoods you must wake up early in high spirits to do some serious walking, because in the most narrow of streets even street cars barely manage their way. We paused at the NAME Miradouro overlooking breathtaking views of Lisboa including St. George Castle, Ponte 25 and the endless terracotta tile roofs.

The next set of photos were taken while riding the tuk tuk 🙂

A short drive over the bridge back to my aunt and uncle quaint home to savor a fresh grilled fish and garden to table dinner, and enjoy the rest of the beautiful Saturday.

But this is what life and days can look like in Portugal, especially when in the Lisboa region. It’s lovely to be able to take people back to places that are special to you, and in turn these places show you something new or something old but you’ve only just discovered now. Your appreciate and love for these places grows, and becomes far more than mere traveling, and every bit a part of the journey…

The summer of 2019 ….