I first became enamored with the seaside town of Nazaré as a young teen, and then had the chance of getting to know this traditional yet cool place several years ago during a weekend getaway — where the powerful waves made their mark, the famed peixeiras dressed in their sete saias {fisherwomen dressed in seven skirts} lined the beachfront walkways with displays of dried fish. With its surge and appreciation for its big waves in the the last decade, it’s easy to understand why Nazaré has become a surfer’s adventurous paradise.
It was Monday, the jet-lagged still hadn’t been shaken off, but the desire to get out and about was also itching. With a base in Entrocamento for a few days, decided a yummy lunch at a favorite spot in Fatima, Apollo Caffé was in order first. Their Shrimp Açorda is a delight, but opted for a light flavorful bowl of Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato with a basket of toasted bread and glass of chilled Vinho Verde. Since I wasn’t quite in the mood for a full beach day, and with the recent ending of a personal favorite docu-series, the 100 Foot Wave, chose heading to Nazaré’s Sitio and waking along the seaside cliffs seeing the powerfully calming waves from the iconic Farol {Lighthouse} was a great way to spend the afternoon.
Nazaré’s Sitio is a must-stop when in the area, it really is the best place to get a mix of the culture and pick up little gifts while catching the views. Take the walk down to the lighthouse, now setup with small kiosks of bites and drinks to see the the picturesque views of town, the terracotta-lined roofs and the green coastal sides of the beach where surfers call home. During big wave season, from October to March, the lighthouse is a very important location for surfers and their teams in keeping an eye on their safety and impeding big swells. It’s such an integral part of the Nazaré surfer culture, that it houses a surfing museum within the fort where you can see a bit of the big wave history, the surfing legends and locals who made this location world renowned.
If you have ever heard how European lifestyle loves to take the day slowly, yet somehow all gets done and the days seem full enough to savor it all, well it’s true. I ended the day cooling off at the lovely lakeside town of Castelo do Bode and dinner at Vila Nova da Barquinha’s city festival with dinner of delicious Caracóis {Snails}. Yes it’s a Portuguese delight when made well, if you’re willing to experiment! The evening ended in my aunt’s garden, where a brief rainfall cooled off the day’s heat and settled into another one of adventure …..
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