Peniche, the seaside town known for its fishing, delicious marine dishes, and of course the unbeatable surfing…
A famed coastal town that has retained much of its charm and quietness, despite the ever growing tourism. Peniche is also the only place one can be to visit the Berlengas; a Portuguese archipelago consisting of small islands. All inhabited, Berlenga Grande is the only island that does open its port for a short tourist season. I was lucky to have visited Peniche twice within this year. Last year after my stay at Areias do Seixo I took a drive along the coast to see the ocean views from Cabo Carvoeiro. Then this summer, with hopes of filling our time away with trips we could easily take for a night or weekend, we decided why not see the beautiful Berlengas!
It was the end of June and with the intense heat continuously imprinted, we made our way to Peniche. We caught the first boat out to the Berlengas, and I highly recommend it. The island is small with only a limited number of people allowed, the trails are long and windy to the lighthouse and fort, and their breathtaking not-to-miss beach is small. So the later you go, the more chances you’ll have for it to already be crowded.
We reserved out boat trip ahead of time, making things easier for the early morning. We did travel during the week, so I would assume as you get closer to the months of July/August or on a weekend the limited excursions fill up quickly. The boat ride is about 35 minutes to and back from the island, but as a word of caution even if you tend not to get seasick, the water getting closer the Berlenga Grande is quite choppy and rough. Even those having been on plenty of high seas, boats and have never gotten seasick may feel it — take it from me personally. The boat ride back isn’t as rough as you’ll be going along with the current.
Come prepared as best you can with drinks, snacks or anything you made need, the island only has a small cafe/snack bar and a restaurant adjacent to its equally small hotel. In no way was I going to let that dampen the limited time we had to explore this unique and breathtaking archipelago.
Upon arriving you’re met with majestic rolling cliffs and iridescent blue waters, as if untouched since prehistoric times. The fisherman already having been out, back with their fresh morning catches. The life of a Portuguese fisherman is rich with intrigue and history. After getting myself, slowly, settled back to feeling ok, we walked towards a lookout just below the lighthouse. One of Berlengas most famous images are those of its Fort, which is regarded as one of the most scenic in the country.
The walk and sights around really are beautiful — but it’s quite a walk there and back. We thought our time would be best savored at its quaint and gorgeous beach.
Crystal clear turquoise waters, the calm ripples sparkling in the sunshine, the peach colored sand beneath the vast cliffs that hovered above — this beautiful corner of the world makes it feel like you’ve transported onto a remote tropical island. When really it’s another reminder of how beautiful this small, but mighty country of Portugal is. And all the immensely vast landscapes and natural environments is has for us to experience and cherish. This combination of history, dramatic natural scenery and extensive wildlife, makes the Berlengas Islands a fascinating and special destination.
We returned back to Peniche mid-afternoon, picking up personal Margherita pizzas and eating them on the marina. Watching the locals and kayakers passing by, we relished in this beautiful moment. We retreated back to the cozy cool apartment we booked for the night, where we regained our energies and freshened up before dinner.
Peniche is surrounded by natural beauty and known for its jagged cliffs where the powerful ocean waves crash upon, and the golden hazy sunsets are worth all your attention. Taking the drive through, literally through the middle of Baleal Beach, to the Island you’re met with withered cliffs that appear as if the markings of a whale. There is something so profoundly special about the ocean, standing atop those cliffs, connecting you even more to your culture but also shows you plainly how much time has passed. The empty and aged fishermen homes once bustling now left to their own against the ocean tides…
…Now etchings of the past, it’s incredibly calming and awe inspiring…
Peniche is known for its fish, so having a fish or seafood meal is a must. We had a delightful dinner at Restaurante The Marina. With a great vibe and lovely staff, we started with a bread basket accompanied with a trio of herbed butters and marinated olives, along with Ameijoas a Bulhão Pato, a personal favorite dish of mine. Once I saw the Squid Ink Rice, I knew it was just what I’d be ordering. It’s deep black color almost always turns eaters away, if they aren’t familiar with how delicious ink dishes can be!
A flavorful fishiness, salty and sweet, and easy on the palette. I’m sure it’s not a menu item all to commonly ordered amongst tourists, so the chef personally brought mine out, serving us in a excited and joyous demeanor that we were Portuguese and would be savoring this delicacy. It’s certainly one of those dishes that absolutely tastes better and completely different than its appearance, a must try!
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