Whenever I go to Portugal, I’m fortunate to spend time in Lisboa’s Caparica coast. Having family there, it’s always a treat being a close drive to the city and also near its beautiful beaches. Sometimes my stays are jammed packed with adventures, others too short but oh-so sweet. This year was somewhere in the middle, with a few days of much needed relaxation amongst the beauty of my family’s little home garden/little farm. While the others were short stays or a drive by for quick city to-dos. But not without a yummy meal before leaving.
This year, we finally made it to Setúbal for lunch, where our only agenda was to savor and enjoy this coastal city’s famed chocos fritos {fried cuttlefish}. The city is known for this fish dish, with locals and tourists flocking restaurants to taste this delight. Come early or be prepared to wait fir a table, especially during summertime. Having arrived early, we took a lovely stroll along the marina before our lunch. Boat after boat lined the dock of turquoise waters, that were calling for us to take a dip in and cool off from the intense hot sun.
Setúbal is a rich fishing city, and also known for its bountiful dolphin sightings. We didn’t happen to spot any swimming that day, but strolled along an art display dedicated to the city’s marine friends. Our chocos {fried cuttlefish} were delectable! A generous platter of lightly fried pieces that were seasoned with spice and made scrumptious with a sprinkling of lemon juice. You could just taste the freshness of the seafood. If there is one place to eat cuttlefish, it most certainly is Setúbal where they are freshly caught and served.
Setúbal is also located within the gorgeous picturesque Serra da Arrabida, which encompasses vast forested hills and towering cliffs of views to some of Portugal’s most beautiful turquoise beaches. Driving through the Serra wasn’t in our plans for the day, but we managed to stop and take in the stunning beach sights before our return home. If in the area, I highly recommend you spend the day in the Serra da Arrabida, and take the drive along Lisbon’s most scenic routes!
If there is one culinary experience that has gained quite a name for itself in Portugal, mostly due to tourists, it would be brunch! And on two occasions we had ourselves some delicious brunches.
Our first was at the quite popular, and dare I say insta-known Augusto Lisboa. Be forewarned, it is slightly geared to tourists and with its small size, doesn’t take reservations, so waiting in line is expected. Their clientele is more often tourists/travelers than locals, that their kind staff was surprised but genuinely happy to see our Portuguese selves enjoy their dishes. Augusto’s aesthetic is fun yet cozy modern and will easily draw you in, as will their vast menu of brunch dishes and drinks. Veering more towards lunch, and because we are Portuguese and love our cheese, we opted for their hearty Portuguese Degustation charcuterie board.
With an array of the country’s best cheeses from cow to goat, sheep and locally cured meats, which were all served with homemade wheat bread, mouthwatering pumpkin jam, marinated olives, herbed butter and olive oil. We enjoyed every single bite with their signature Sangria; a blend of Porto, Cointreau, honey, natural wine, fruits, cinnamon and fresh mint. Even if sangria isn’t your drink of choice, like me, this one is quite good and especially refreshing on a hot summer day.
The other brunch spot in Lisboa is one we happened to walk upon because our first choice had a line too long for us to wait. And Cotidiano hit every eggy avocado toast craving I had! To be honest, I didn’t even realize I was in desperate need of spicy eggs until I ate theirs. And let me say it was one of the best egg toasts I’ve had! A hearty slice of toast topped with perfectly runny eggs that were drizzled with pesto, avocado slices and for me, a healthy dose of hot sauce. It’s served alongside a seasonal mixed greens salad with a dressing I can’t quite pinpoint its flavors, but it’s the kind I would lick my plate for!
Cotidiano is a local favorite spot for breakfast/brunch, and now one I’m looking forward to enjoying again!
If there is anything Lisboa and the Caparica area has no shortage of, is good eats and beautiful beaches. Much like most of Portugal’s coast and beaches, the Caparica area is a surfer’s paradise. On any given day, you need only take a walk or sit in the sand, to have yourself an enticing show of surfers catching waves. Summer has been a hot one in Portugal, like most of Europe, and the best way to cool off is often alongside the ocean breeze.
With endless options nearby to choose from, I opted to venture to Praia da Princesa and stroll along the glimmering seashore of crystal blue waters. It was midweek, summer vacations hadn’t quite started so the beach was mostly being enjoyed by locals, daycares, tourists who call this their favorite summer spot, and of course the surfers and surfing schools.
The ocean water so pristine and warm, it was such a good morning. I also had every intention of having a beautiful ocean view lunch, and that I did at Praia Princesa. A restaurant and beach bar with striped and straw umbrellas and private lounging spaces. It’s a mini getaway perfect for anyone to enjoy, whether solo or with a group.
I had been craving sushi and couldn’t pass on their Temaki, of which I ordered and fully enjoyed two of their salmon. The Temakis were light and deliciously fresh, perfect on a gorgeous beach day and paired with a refreshing juice blended with strawberry, passion fruit and watermelon. It was such a lovely day, and highly recommend a stop if you’re on the Costa da Caparica.
I always love spending time in this tranquil corner of the Lisboa region…in the garden, which is more like a small farm of my family’s home. A place so close to the city, yet far enough away. One rich in calmness and abundant homegrown vegetables, fruits, flowers and life of every variety. Where the skies are clear enough to stargaze and even see Venus when it made its way close to Earth. A place where the tide when high and rough, one can even hear the crashing of the waves amongst the swaying pine trees…
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