Along with the regions of Serra da Estrela and Lisboa, whenever I’m in Portugal I tend to spend time in Entroncamento where a dear aunt resides. Last Autumn, we made the most of the hot, very late summer days and cooled off at Aldeia do Mato and explored Dornes in the Ferreira do Zêzere. Located in the central region of Portugal within the fertile Santarém District, it’s perfectly situated to make full day adventures of many locations. I’ve taken the hour drive to Nazaré the year before, and a few years ago, enjoyed a great Spring day in Obidos and Buddha Eden Garden.
This year I wanted to finally cross off the Carlos Relvas Home and Photography Musuem, since it was closed when I was there before. In Portugal, many museums are closed on Mondays, so if you have certain places you’d like to visit, this is good to know beforehand. On a day venturing with my mom, we made an afternoon stop in Tomar, to roam the old convent and cobblestone streets, before continuing our drive back up to the Serra da Estrela.
Read below for moments here and there within the Entroncamento area…
T O M A R
After a flavorful lunch of açorda de camarão in Fatima, a well-known catholic pilmgrage site my mother always likes to visit when she’s near, we were set on making the most of the many hours of sun that lay before us. We intended to be spontaneous and see where the road took us, as long as it remained north in the direction of home. Instantly intrigued by road signs indicating the Roman City of Ourém, I thought it’d be a nice historical drive. Well, multiple times circling the small quiet village, and driving along the narrow winding roads up and down alongside the Castelo de Ourém — we found nothing. But we didn’t fret.
We were close to Tomar, and I was flooded with memories of the few times I had been as a child with my aunt during summer town parties, or quick errands. And yet, I hadn’t really explored too much of this city. Tomar is most famously recognized by its historical connection with the Knights Templar and its Convento de Cristo. As well as its Festas dos Tabuleiros that take place every four years, with its grand floral and food structures paraded by young women, bringing numerous visitors from all over.
The Convent sits impressively atop the mount overlooking the entire city and surroundings. The drive up for the view is worth it on its own, but the former castle turned convent’s architectural draw is a must. Entrance to its garden and outdoor spaces are free, with a fee being charged for those looking to visit inside. For the history buffs, the town of Tomar itself was created inside the Convento de Cristo in the 12th century. As the headquarters for the Knights in Portugal, it was also the last Templar town constructed and has since become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We casually walked the gardens, taking in the centuries of history and stone work. If you plan to see the inside, I suggest you allow yourself more than just a quick pass. Making our way down to the center of the city, we left our car near the river that runs along Tomar and its beautiful park. And then we simply began to stroll through the old town filled with beautiful tiled façades, restaurants, cozy cafes and artisan shops.
Having had a large lunch, we simply couldn’t pass on Gelatomania, which was bustling with joyful gelato lovers. We enjoyed our hearty and yummy bowls, mine of Stracciatella and Black Cherry Chocolate Chip, finishing them as we leisurely walked around the charming streets. Ending our day on the perfect flavor…
G O L E G Ã // Carlos Relvas Museum
A fun fact about Entroncamento; it’s known as the land of phenomena. And one of the most unique and rich places to visit in the nearby town of Golegã, is the Carlos Relvas Musuem. I don’t have any pictures inside as they are not allowed, and having undergone an intense restoration, visitors also have to wear shoe covers. Yet this place and the details inside are so special, those memories are ones you’ll always cherish. I just made the final guided tour of the day, and was joined by a couple, where we had such a personal in depth hour long tour. The story of his studio/home is very unique, having been completely abandoned for many years, it was exposed to looters and the wear of time. I’m so glad it was brought back to its glory, as such an important family in the area but more so of a man who brought photography to Portugal. And it’s astounding how it’s not more well known.
The surrounding garden was planted by him with trees and specimens, both native and brought back from travels. Carlos Relvas commissioned his unique studio building with every intricate detail of wood and iron, with the utmost precision and intention. Here he furthered his photography career, developed techniques and used machinery revolutionary of the time. Each room had its own purpose and design, very much like his distinguishable photography style that received countless prestige around the world during the 19th century. Whether you’re a professional or amateur connoisseur of photography art, or simply enjoy experiencing unique places, this is a must visit!
Carlos Relvas photographed many aspects of the Portugal life during his time, but he was so much more. Golegã is very connected to the world of equesterian, and naturally so was he. It’s the home of the national horse fair, a festival where horse lovers and professionals gather, and it almost allows you to step back in time. A quick drive around even the smallest corner of town, and you see how much horses are integral to the being of this area.
C O N S T A N Ç I A
A quaint village we occasionally go for a walk or an afternoon coffee is Constançia. And where the Zêzere river meets the Tejo, you’ll find its Praia Fluvial — where we relaxed after the day in Dornes. It’s a hidden gem with palm umbrellas, by local and tourists alike. Lie by the water, setup a picnic or take a scenic walk around the trails, it’s a great spot to enjoy an afternoon.
And while this little village may be charming, it holds quite the historical and cultural significance…it’s the birthplace of our famous poet Luís de Camões. His home/garden is actually open for visitors, but it’s very small and not as tended to as one would think, for such an important figure of Portugal’s history. I visited some years ago, and found the garden sadly unkempt, but a quick walk around to say you visited such a significant location, is still nice.
V I L A N O V A D A B A R Q U I N H A
If I’m ever in Entrocamento, then a walk around Barquinha’s park, a coffee by the water or the occasionally summer festival if the timing is right, well it’s like second nature. It’s yet another charming and quiet village located next to the River Tagus, a once fertile fishing area. River fish dishes have since become the area’s coveted local cuisine, which I will say is always fresh and if fish egg migas or enguias {eels} are on the menu, order them!
Barquinha is closely located to the Castelo de Almoural, situated on an islet in the middle of the river. It’s quite picturesque, especially when casually relaxing at a cafe across the way taking in the views. As you may have guessed, since this region is rich in Templar history, so too is this Castle. And fun fact, this town is also home to Portugal’s second oldest building!
So much history is found in the least likely of places, where you don’t need a full agenda or plan to savor…
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